schmindigo

Lee’s Chinese Inn

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This is David, son of the owners at Lee's Chinese Inn in Donaldsonville, Louisiana, one of the towns along the River Road between New Orleans & Baton Rouge. While I was talking to David, I noticed that he had a little batch of business cards on the counter: Buddha's Computers. You go, David! Restaurant dude by day, PC Technician by night... or something along those lines, anyway. I didn't press him for details.

New Orleans

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First Chinese restaurant of the trip! We'd been remarking that it was odd to be in a city for over 24 hours without seeing a single Chinese restaurant... when I spied this one, we started wondering: maybe we've been going past dozens of them, but they're so subtle & understated that we've missed them entirely? This one was a takeout joint hidden in the back of a corner store, across the street from an HIV testing site. Wow, I thought, something I've never seen before... the menu was up high on the wall, discontinued items unceremoniously lined out. Breakfast options included "grit only" for $1.00. The women behind the counter turned out to be Vietnamese, no surprise since most Asians in the area are Vietnamese. As I watched them busily spreading mayonnaise on split French rolls, I had a flash of complete familiarity, & realized there really isn't much difference between a po boy & a Vietnamese sandwich. It all makes sense for a quasi-Francophone place like New Orleans. When we came back outside, the assortment of African American men who'd been standing around on our way in had been completely replaced by a more uniform handful of black-clad white street kids.

landed

We're here! We landed in New Orleans & collected our mass quantities of luggage, including a taped-shut cooler loaded with various cooking implements. I don't think I've ever piled up one of those smarte cartes so high. I pushed it while Donna walked alongside with one hand steadying the topmost piece of luggage, her other hand carrying her bass. People actually laughed out loud at us as we precariously wheeled toward the rental car counter. That's ok though, because I was laughing out loud too. We stepped out of the terminal into a moderate level of humidity, just enough to add a tropical ambiance. Temperature in the lower 80s. Not too different from, say, Hawaii. Nice! Then I thought I caught a whiff of BBQ. Hey, we must be in the South! Donna thought I was imagining it, but you know, whatif someone was picking up someone at the airport & brought them some BBQ? It's entirely possible. We barely managed to cram all our stuff into the rental car, even though it's an "Intermediate" size Taurus, several steps up from my usual "Economy" rental. Thank you Creative Work Fund!

We found our way to the B&B, schlepped our stuff upstairs into our room, & then it was nap time. I'm way too old for these pre-trip, last-minute-packing all-nighters anymore. Plus I can't sleep on planes. Doesn't matter how tired I am or how long the flight is, I can only get a maximum of about an hour sleep on a plane, & that's if I'm lucky. After a long nap we managed to stumble out to dinner. There was crawfish etouffee & catfish, but in the end my main feeling was: oh, we're still in America. After a very promising veggie soup (in the "just like mom used to make" vein), the salad arrived with Ranch dressing glopped on top, & then the etouffee was just kind of, I dunno, really ordinary, regular food. I probably shouldn't get into it too much, not being a food critic or anything. (Except perhaps in my own mind... some people are rockstars in their own minds, some people are porn stars... but wait, I'm not really a food writer in my imagination, that's not exactly it... oh, I think my sleepiness is catching up with me... zzz....) Well anyway, that's what we get for picking a restaurant based almost completely on its immediate accessibility: two short blocks away, a mere break from the all-important mission of paying down the sleep debt.

technical difficulties

I've gotten some reports that the survey is having issues. Crashing, not working, &c. I'm sorry I don't know how to fix this. Maybe too many enthusiastic Times readers are trying to fill it out at once? If it's not working for you, please, pretty please, come back later & try again. Thank you. I am humbled by the awesome power of one little paragraph in the Dining section!

Gainsville

Today's mail brought a manila envelope from Gainesville, Florida. When I opened it & took the two menus out, I saw that they had gotten wet & were stained with the orangey color of the envelope. Hurricane menus?! Awwww....

Egg Foo ?

Here's the New York Times article by Michael Luo: "As All-American as Egg Foo Yong". There's even a mention of moi in there.

I've always spelled it Egg Foo Yung. When I had occasion to spell it. (Not often.)

By the way, Dealership has a new album out. I haven't had a chance to get my hands on it yet, but I bet it's good. Have I ever complained to you about my Dealership curse? Every time they play, I want to go, but something always happens so I can't. Basically, if Dealership is playing anywhere near me, I can count on getting sick or having some kind of car or transit breakdown, or extreme drama -- I think one time there was actually a death in the family! I'm not even kidding. I have tried to accept this but it's hard, you know? Because I can just tell they would be so much fun live.

Heading South!

I sent the following out to my mailing list a couple days ago. Here it is again (slightly edited) for the benefit of any blog readers who aren't on my list:

The Chinese Restaurant Project is about to head for the South! Nope, not Los Angeles. We're talking Mississippi, Alabama, bits of Arkansas & Louisiana. Maybe even Memphis! Do Chinese restaurants near Graceland have big tubs of peanut butter on the buffet next to the sweet & sour sauce??

For the Southern trip I've teamed up with the Chinese Historical Society of America, where I'll be showing work from this trip next spring. The good folks at CHSA are helping out with research, PR, & admin for the project. Yay CHSA!

The trip, the show, & indeed this whole Southern branch of the project is generously funded by the very fabulous Creative Work Fund, so the trip can be longer (23 days!) & I won't have to stay in such divey motels this time! Yay for the Creative Work Fund!

Donna Keiko Ozawa, who also came with me to Wyoming, will be accompanying me on this trip to shoot video for a piece she's working on about the project. She'll also be providing logistical, creative & moral support! Yay Donna!

If you'd like to help out with this trip, here's how: put us in touch with your friends, relatives & colleagues in the South! They don't have to be Chinese! We're looking to meet up with regular nice folks who are willing to be interviewed about their experiences with Chinese restaurants. We can interview them on camera or if they're shy, just with sound recording. We can spend 10 minutes or we can spend an hour, whatever works for them & us. Just to give you an idea of where we'll be going, here are some of the major stops we have planned: New Orleans, Baton Rouge, Montgomery, Birmingham, Memphis, Little Rock, Greenville, Jackson, Natchez.

If you have somebody who might be interested, please email me the following info:
Name
Relationship to you
Town
Phone number
Email if they have it
Approximate age
Ethnicity
Whether or not they are affiliated w/ a Chinese restaurant

Yay for you!

Also welcome: tips on where to eat, where to stay, cool little towns to visit, good outdoor swimming pools (can't let all those hush puppies get the better of us), &c.... We're leaving in about a week. I'll be blogging all along the way, so you can read about our adventures on the road. I'll be posting photos too. Hopefully I won't have anything to say about hurricanes!

Thanks again for your support!

Feng Garden

Hurricane aftermath note from The New York Times: "Emergency food distribution points were set up by the authorities in Baldwin County, but several restaurants began to reopen amid fallen trees, including the Feng Garden Chinese Restaurant and a Burger King with its front sign missing."

You go, Feng Garden!

Hurricane

I fretted about Hurricane Ivan all day yesterday, & now I'm keeping an eye on Jeanne. They're predicting Jeanne will stay well east of where we're going to be, but I'm worrying anyway because who knows what she'll really do?

Anyway, I think we'll take Mobile off the itinerary, but for now, I'm sticking to the plan to land in New Orleans & drive from there. Supposedly I was going to get all our motel reservations nailed down this week. Ha! As if. I'm just glad we're not down there already.

Closer to home, Poly Vinyl Chloride generously treated 3 lucky friends to Neil Young at the Berkeley Community Theater last night. Thank you, Poly! I feel like I'm living quite high on the hog; just last week I got to see the eternally fabulous Prince. His Royal Purpleness had the entire audience eating out of his hand, wrapped around his little finger, you choose your metaphor.... Neil Young is a whole different type of fabulous, but his audience no less adoring. He didn't sing "Hurricane", but I have it stuck in my head right now anyway.

Stephen Shore

I don't remember who told me, months & months ago, that I should look at Stephen Shore, but whoever it was: Thank you!!! (Now that I finally got around to following up.... You should be, um, impressed at how long I keep little tiny scraps of notes floating around my desk.) Since I am an admitted photo newbie (& how!), I'm not embarrassed to say I had never heard of Shore & am seeing his work from the 70s as a kind of revelation. Lucky for me, Aperture Foundation just (re)published a big luscious book of this good stuff. Now you know what I spent money on this week.

all the McDonald’s, Wendy’s, & Burger Kings put together

So, I was talking to Mike Luo, a New York Times writer who's researching Chinese restaurants (yay!), & he said that there are more Chinese restaurants in the USA than all the McDonald's, Wendy's, & Burger Kings put together!

Dang! I was like, how is that even possible? It sounds too good to be true! But a little research shows that Alabama has only 135 McDonald's (or should I say McDonald'ses? McDonald's'?) & my database has 231 Chinese restaurants there. Wyoming has 7 McDonald'ses & over 60 Chinese restaurants. Then if you think about the number of Chinese restaurants in San Francisco as opposed to McDonald's', well, hey.... So you can start to see how this trippy factoid can actually be true. Gotta love those journalist types for coming up with this stuff!

wireless

Gather round, children, & let granny tell you about the old days when email was new. Or new to me, anyway. Back in 1992 I got a part-time job working for a radio series, aptly named the Communications Revolution, which was all about demystifying & investigating the new technology that was just starting to explode on the scene. All of our project advisors were the hard-core geeks who had email before anybody else ever did, which meant that we had to have email too so we could talk to them. I still remember vividly when one of my coworkers wrote out a page-long set of instructions on how to upload a document (what we now call sending an attachment); I anxiously but gamely worked my way down the page, following each instruction, until I saw the lines of text scrolling up the monitor. It was a revelation -- this stuff actually worked!

When the web came along, I nursed a phobia of it, too, for several months until I finally jumped in with both feet, never to look back. I'm like this about every new thing that comes along on the net; I'm a late adopter but once I get over my anxieties I'm all over it. Anyway, one of our project geek angels back then was Tim Pozar. Tim set us up with all kinds of tech stuff, none of which I remember at all anymore, but the main thing about Tim was that he was a real mensch, whipsmart, & just so totally enthusiastic about the internet & its potential for good that you couldn't help but catch a bit of his enthusiasm yourself.

Meanwhile, back in the present, just now I was nervously surfing around for info about the wireless universe that I'm about to join, all for the sake of Better Chinese Restaurant Blogging From The Road. The concept of wireless has given me a whole new set of worries about security & encryption & so forth (thanks to that old job, I've always been aware of those issues too), & whether or not it's gonna end up costing me a lot of money, & so on & so forth. I didn't realize how anxious I actually was until I happened upon Tim's name at the top of a list of free wireless nodes in San Francisco, & suddenly felt much better. Like traveling to somewhere new & kind of scary, & then running into someone you know who's actually an expert on the place.

Reminds me yet again of this traditional Turkish folktale formula, which has been very much in my mind recently: "They went a great way but still went only a little way; they went over rivers and mountains and yet went straight; they went for six months and a summer, but when they looked back, they found that they had gone only the length of a grain of barley." (See Ahmet E. Uysal's Tales Alive in Turkey for this & many other variations on the formula.)

crab rangoon

Oh, the mysteries: I have no idea what this album sounds like. I have never heard of Asian Man Records until just now. I can't tell from the picture whether there's an Asian person in this band (it appears not), & I have not the first clue why they would name an album Crab Rangoon. But there it is, & I'm blogging about it. If you are more adventurous with your $8 than I am, maybe you could buy this & listen to it & tell me what it's all about.

in the mailbox

Some days really bring a lotta love in the mailbox. From Holga buddy Doria comes a thematic Chinese restaurant T-shirt perfect for my next photo op. From city planning whiz Rolf, a CD of Mississippi & Alabama census maps. At the moment I am gazing fondly upon a map showing racial/ethnic diversity by census tract, for Birmingham. They do this by an Index of Qualitative Variation, "a measure ranging from 0.0 to 1.0 in which a higher score indicates greater diversity. A tract with a score of 1.0 would have even numbers of people across all racial/ethnic categories. A score of 0.0 indicates 'monoracial.'" Fascinating stuff.

Also a few days ago the mail brought a stack of menus from Washington DC. I didn't have any from there before that. Keep it coming, please Mr. Postman!

These things almost balance out the utter despair I feel over the fact that the bathroom is still leaking.

a cautionary tale

So, as promised, here is a Chinese restaurant story from the road, a cautionary tale about Why You Shouldn’t Work When You’re Tired:

I was fried; I’d gotten about 4 hours of sleep to my usual 8, gotten up early to catch a plane & then drove all day after that. Just before sunset, I arrived in a Wyoming town (which shall remain nameless), checked into the Travelodge, & went out determined to get my much-desired shot of a particular Chinese restaurant (which shall also remain nameless). This was a restaurant I had tried shooting two years before. Of all the photos that didn’t turn out from that trip, this was the only one I couldn’t let go of; I really thought this lonely-looking restaurant had great photogenic potential. So here I was, supposedly on vacation, giving my workaholic self a dispensation to go to work on this restaurant. I drove the short distance across town, got there & realized that I was just a few minutes too late; the sun had set & the light was no good. The perfect picture had eluded me again. This was not so terrible, because I knew I would be coming through town again on my way back home at the end of my vacation. Since I was there, though, I figured I should go in & try to get a release signed, because who knew if anyone would be there to do the signing on my return trip.

I took a breath & went in. There was only one table of customers, a tired-looking white family who all looked up at me as I entered. The dad had big bags under his eyes. A young Chinese woman greeted me & I asked for permission to shoot. She said, You should talk to the boss. A short man approximately in his 30s came out of the kitchen. I started to tell him what I wanted, & he beckoned me into a little side room, where there were only 3 or 4 tables. He swept a pile of Chinese newspapers off one & invited me to sit down. He asked if I wanted anything to drink & I politely asked for water. It was obvious the language barrier was significant; I could feel my tiredness as I tried unsuccessfully to explain what an artist was, or at least, what I would be doing with the photos. He mostly cared about getting a photo for himself, so that he could bring it back to China on his next visit. I promised to send him a small print. Then I started the standard questions like, How did you end up here? I got out my microphone & leaned across the table to hold it to his mouth. His story was the usual one: started in San Francisco, couldn’t afford to buy a house there, moved to Wyoming because he had a friend here. Out of his very fragmented English, one phrase emerged loud & clear: "no choice".

Since I always want to know about restauranteurs raising their kids in these places, I asked, Do you have kids? He shook his head no. The logical next question was, Are you married? But as soon as it came out of my mouth I knew I had fucked up. Pouncing eagerly upon this opening, he fired back with a big smile, No, are you? Still caught off guard by my own mistake, I said, No. Do you have a boyfriend? Recovering a little too late I said emphatically, Yes! But I could see we had gone in a bad direction. I steered away to other topics, got him to sign the release. He asked if I wanted something to eat. Exhausted, I accepted so I could avoid the tedious search for dinner in this town of extremely limited options. He got up to make it. Still trying to get something useful out of the situation, I got out my other microphones to capture some ambient noise while I waited.

The woman came in to talk to me. Her English was a lot better than his. She said that she was studying education & had a job teaching little kids. I said, So, you have that job and you work here too? She said, I’m just filling in this week while his wife is out of town. I groggily filed this piece of information away & asked her if she was related to him. With the subtlest possible hint of distaste, she said, No, he’s just the boss. Just then he came back with my order packed up in a big brown bag, & she slipped away into the main room. I was relieved that he had packed it to go because I’d been worrying I’d have to sit there with him watching me eat. I thanked him & offered to pay, knowing that he would refuse. This has happened before & I didn’t think there was anything wrong with it until he trailed me out of the building, asking, Is that your car? Are you staying in a motel? Can I come there?!

Yikes! I said, No, sorry! & fled with my food. I felt completely slimed & a little freaked out, so when I got back to the motel I told the nice Indian dad at the desk, Uh, I don’t want any visitors, so if anyone comes looking for me.... He immediately said, Of course ma’am, giving me a very proper, dignified nod that conveyed his complete understanding & control of the situation. Considerably reassured, I went up to my room, where I blew the psychic slime off the food before eating what I could of it. Dude had packed an enormous portion of chicken fried rice, plus a quart styrofoam container of cola (which I barely recognized because I never drink it). Enough food for two hungry lovers, I guess, blech!

As I sat there forking broccoli flowerets out of the mountain of rice, it dawned on me that the desperate restauranteur must surely have propositioned his pretty young employee as well. She had obviously been eavesdropping on our conversation & was watching my back for me. Sisterhood is powerful! I wondered if maybe she was doing that unpleasant job purely as a favor to the wife, who might be one of her best friends in a small town like this.

In the morning, after a solid night’s sleep under the protection of the proper Indian innkeepers, I considered that I couldn’t really blame the poor guy, running his miserable Chinese restaurant in this godforsaken town; if he felt he had no choice in where to live & how to make a living, might he not also feel that he had not much choice in who he had married? If I were him, I’d probably be throwing myself at anyone who came near me, too! Nevertheless I was more than happy to get the hell out of dodge, & swore not to do any more work until the end of the trip. When I came back through a week later, I’d had plenty of rest, all my shots were from a safe distance, & I was glad that nobody came out of the restaurant to see what I was doing. I figured the wife must be back by now anyway.